Tea and cake are essential on any British walk. A bad café can ruin a route, while a good one keeps walkers and cyclists happy. I set out to explore the Llŷn peninsula in Gwynedd, Wales, along the Seafood Trail, wondering if the sweets would match the seafood.
Our journey began in Nefyn on the north coast, a town with a great brewery and the famous Tŷ Coch Inn pub. The weather forecast warned of storms, so we stayed at the Nanhoron Arms hotel for a gentle start. Dinner included delicious Anglesey sea bass, and next morning we watched heavy rain from the comfort of our dry room before heading out.
The first section of the walk immediately impressed. The rain stopped as we crossed Nefyn golf course and followed cliffs and coves. Atlantic grey seals played in the shallows while a kestrel hovered above. Blackberries provided a snack along the way.
For lunch, we arrived at Cwt Tatws in Towyn. The name means “Potato Shed,” but the café’s offerings far exceed expectations. Sandwiches, pies, salads, and cakes were served in a cosy setting with vintage clothing and Welsh products for sale. A slice of coffee and walnut sponge fuelled us for the next part of the walk.
We followed the coast along Traeth Penllech, a sandy beach lined with sentinel rocks, reaching our first campsite at Moel-y-Berth. Run by Mike and Joanna Smith, it has a shop and café for breakfast. We watched another storm pass before stepping out into sunshine again.
By midafternoon, energy was running low without more tea and cake. At Porthor’s Whistling Sands beach, Caffi Porthor appeared, offering homemade cakes including Bara brith, a traditional Welsh fruit cake made with tea and spices. Fueled by tea and cake, I continued seven miles to the tip of the Llŷn peninsula, taking in dramatic cliffs and the tidal race near Bardsey Island.
Aberdaron, the next village, has a charming fish and chip shop called Sblash and a welcoming pub, The Ship, where Welsh is the main language.
At Rhiw, I met Brett and Nia, who harvest crab and lobster for their Top Cat Caffi. We enjoyed a lobster salad lunch, though the worsening weather kept us from helping with the catch. That evening at Rhydolion farm, we walked an extra mile to Llanengan for mussels at the Sun Inn.
The final day took us across Hell’s Mouth, a surfers’ beach and former shipwreck site, then around Mynydd Cilan headland to Abersoch. Here, plenty of cafés provided shelter from the storm. The seafood was fresh, but the memories of tea and cakes along the route were unforgettable.
Walking the Llŷn peninsula blends natural beauty, delicious local food, and cozy cafés. The combination of dramatic cliffs, charming villages, and seafood treats makes it a walk to remember.
